Author: Matsukase
Il était une fois dans l’Ouest
Like a virgin
Shōgun
Midlife crisis
HT’s sucks
Lost ²
Lost it! I’m caught in a rage
Like an animal locked in a cage
Now I look into the barrel of a gauge
BOOM!
Continue reading “Lost ²”
Fihermen
On nihilism
Surf is dead
— Friedrich Nietzsche
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Fiji is a fairly unique place in the world: great singular nature scenery, spectacular beaches, friendly and helpful people with true open and sharing culture, and of course the dream place of powerful waves right in the middle of the South Pacific.
In July 2010, the Fijian government decided to open access to every wave in the islands. This meant in particular that anyone could surf Cloudbreak and Restaurants, two of the most iconic waves in the world, until then exclusively restricted to the guests of Tavarua island resort for as little as 500 USD per person per night.
Continue reading “On nihilism”
Anarchy in Sorake
The chief of the village was drunk when he took me to the tomb of the Queen of Nias Island. High on a hill above the coconut palms was the fantastic monument with finely carved dragons writhing around its pillars. It was from the balcony of the Queen’s tomb that I first saw the wave wrapping into a small bay. I asked the chief about it, but he quickly changed the subject. He just wanted me to play a song. “Rock Star!” he slurred. Continue reading “Anarchy in Sorake”
