On nihilism


Surf is dead
— Friedrich Nietzsche
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Fiji is a fairly unique place in the world: great singular nature scenery, spectacular beaches, friendly and helpful people with true open and sharing culture, and of course the dream place of powerful waves right in the middle of the South Pacific.

In July 2010, the Fijian government decided to open access to every wave in the islands. This meant in particular that anyone could surf Cloudbreak and Restaurants, two of the most iconic waves in the world, until then exclusively restricted to the guests of Tavarua island resort for as little as 500 USD per person per night.
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Anarchy in Sorake


The chief of the village was drunk when he took me to the tomb of the Queen of Nias Island. High on a hill above the coconut palms was the fantastic monument with finely carved dragons writhing around its pillars. It was from the balcony of the Queen’s tomb that I first saw the wave wrapping into a small bay. I asked the chief about it, but he quickly changed the subject. He just wanted me to play a song. “Rock Star!” he slurred. Continue reading “Anarchy in Sorake”

The good, the bald and the ugly


In 2005 Kelly Slater was on his way to his seventh world title at the QuikSilver pro France 2005.

I’m not usually a fan of big crowds, especially when it comes to the joys of surfing, or hanging around in the middle of 10000 dumb chicks and raging alpha males, but it happened that day that the surf was too stormy for average Joe and contestable enough for the pros. So I went to this contest to have a look.
Continue reading “The good, the bald and the ugly”